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Archive for May, 2011

Sunday was a day full of family, fun and most of all food! Since a picture is worth a thousand words, and it’s still quite early in the week, I’ll save us all some reading and let the photographs speak for themselves!

My cousin Danie’s jaw-dropping home-made cake for her sister-in-law’s baby shower. Yellow and chocolate cake, buttercream, fondant.

The appetizers – tomato, roasted red pepper, fresh mozzarella, thyme, balsamic

Panko-breaded creamy cheesy risotto cakes

French Toast: challah bread, egg custard, blue berries, brown sugar, cinnamon

Quiche Lorraine

Tortellini, ricotta, pesto, sundried tomato, pine nuts

Marachino Cherry Parfait

Braising: Lamb shank, rosemary, thyme, merlot, veal stock, rondeau

Monkfish (the ugliest of all fish) searing in hot olive oil

Balsamic braised chicken thighs with a porcini-portobello-oyster-cremini-shitake mushroom cream sauce

After the oven: Fully braised lamb shanks emerge in a red wine reduction

Braised lamb shanks plated with red wine sauce and braised mirepoix

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Happy Monday :)

Hey, guess what?

It’s almost summer! I know. Just trust me on this one. No, don’t look outside. That whole rain thing will just confuse you. What you need to focus on is this.

Summer. Grilling. It is upon us!

Since there are no backyards or patios in culinary school, we learned the basics of grilling right in our kitchen classroom on grill-pans over burners. Unlike what would happen if I used a grill pan in my apartment (picture black smoke everywhere, fire alarms going off, and Cara and I crawling on the floor to find each other), culinary school has a magical ventilation system that makes sure all the smoke is whisked away so we can keep our sanity, and our lungs.

And make beautiful dishes like this:

Grilled shrimp brochette, grilled asparagus, fennel, red onion and potato.

While I regretfully don’t have access to a grill in NYC, I do love going home during the summer to break out my parent’s grill and experiment with throwing all sorts of things on there! Grilling is actually quite new to me, but I’m quickly learning that it’s a really fun, social, and extremely easy way to cook food. Plus, cooking outside is always a bonus.

Ever since I had a cook-out for my birthday a few years back and made some lemon-olive oil grilled shrimp, these little crustaceans have been one of my favorite foods to throw on the grill. They cook fast and easily, are hard to mess up, and are so light and refreshing – a perfect summertime match. And this new grilling technique culinary school (check out the recipe based from MSNBC.com below!) elevates basic grilled shrimp to the next level. Cooked on a skewer made from a fresh rosemary stem with a few leaves still attached, and interspersed with bay leaves, these lemony, garlicky shrimp are perfumed with the woody, fragrant flavors of these herbs – the ideal match for something cooked outside. And the grape tomatoes get charred, caramelized and super sweet from roasting on the grill. Trust me on this – make these skewers once for a family barbecue or casual backyard dinner and they’ll become a grilling staple in your household for many summers to come!

Grilled Shrimp on Rosemary Skewers- Makes 4 Servings

Adapted from Mark Bittman’s recipe on MSNBC

You’ll need:

  • 1 1/2 pounds of raw shrimp, peeled and de-veined
  • 4 springs of fresh rosemary, largest available (each about 12 inches long, or double the quantity if shorter sprigs are used), needles removed except for the very top
  • 2 cloves of garlic, minced
  • 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
  • 1 lemon, juiced
  • Veggies of choice for in between the shrimp; great with cherry tomatoes, zucchini or peppers
  • Salt and pepper to taste
  • Chopped parsley for garnish

Method:

Start your grill or heat up your grill pan. Strip the leaves from all but the top two inches of each of the rosemary branches. Reserve the leaves and mince about one tablespoon of them.

 

Combine the minced rosemary, olive oil and garlic on a large platter. Peel the shrimp and devein them. Sprinkle them with salt and pepper, and toss them, along with your veggie of choice, on the platter with the olive oil mixture. Juice the lemon and sprinkle the juice over the shrimp.

When you’re ready to grill, skewer the shrimp on the rosemary branches, alternating every shrimp with a veggie. Grill the shrimp about two minutes per side, and serve with a little of the marinade spooned over them and a sprinkling of parsley.

 

 

 

Once removed from grill, let rest for a few minutes, and enjoy!

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Module two is a third of the way over. This week we’ve had our occasional “culinary cram” period, where we’ve got a paper and test back to back. We’ve really kicked things up a notch in this mod (or as chef would say, “Kicked it in the rear”), moving away from prep, prep and more prep, and into actually cooking over real live flames. Saute, pan-fry, deep fry, grill and roast – we are now, if not masters, at the very least well informed of these dry-heat domains. And after tonight’s test, on to wet heat applications we will go.

Last night, while we were applying painstaking focus and determination to the brunoise potato we were supposed to be producing, Chef walked among us. ”Very nice job on your papers,” she announced. Then she walked right up next to me, peering down at my brunoise and then fixing me with her usual quizzical expression.

“And you!” she exclaimed. “I had to laugh!” I dropped my knife and looked up at her frowning, not sure to what she could be referring. “Very nice job, but you started out by writing, ‘I wasn’t too excited for this paper…’ HA! This was a lot more interesting than you last paper about reference books!”

Ah. I grinned and shrugged. “I’m just not a huge fan of frying, Chef.”

She smiled and nodded, “Ah well. Neither am I, really.” And I got back to my potato.

Our most recent paper in school assigned us to dive head first into the wonderful world of fats and oils, and talk about smoke points, ideal oil types for various high-heat cooking methods, and more. But as I mentioned last week right before I totally contradicted myself and imparted on you a ridiculously fine recipe for Buttermilk Tarragon Fried Chicken, I have a tasteful disdain for frying.

When I expressed this concern to my classmates after one particularly grease-spattered class in the locker room (yes, girls locker-r0om chit-chat looks nothing like men’s), someone suggested that I try to find out what the healthiest oils to cook with are, and write about that. I instantly loved this idea – I thought it was challenging and more outside the standard “canola and corn oil” box, so I ran with it.

I have mixed feelings about what I would up learning. I guess I expected a miraculous discovery that there was a way to make fried foods healthy by using some magical mystery oil. Disappointingly, I found that no such oil exists. But I did learn a lot about a few different oils that I rarely cook with, like Sesame, Grape Seed, and Rice Bran (just wait)! The paper also required us to nail down the specifics on techniques like sauteing and pan-frying, which is pretty useful information for any home cook. So while perhaps a bit more academic than most of my blog posts, I hope readers will find these highlights instructional and somewhat demystifying to the art of sauteing and pan-frying with various types of oil.

As a reference point for this research, I looked into what the national heath recommendations were for fat consumption, as a baseline for what I might consider “healthy.” What I discovered was a wealth of information on the necessity and health benefits of fats. As a preface to an in-depth discussion of using fats in dry-cooking methods, I found the following information to be of interest in setting the stage:

                From the American Heart Association: “Dietary fats are essential to give your body energy and to support cell growth.  They also help protect your organs and help keep your body warm.  Fats help your body absorb some nutrients and produce important hormones, too.  The recommended average daily intake of fat should be between 25% to 35% of your total caloric intake. This fat intake should consist of balanced fat, which provides nutrients that are essential to sustain life. A balanced fat intake should contain approximately 30% saturated fat, 33% poly-unsaturated fat, (containing Essential Fatty Acids) and 37% mono-unsaturated fat.”

- Method 1: Sautéing -

 

Sautéing is a method of cooking food that uses a small amount of fat in a shallow pan over relatively high heat. Before sautéing, ingredients are usually cut into uniformly sized pieces or thinly sliced to facilitate fast and even cooking. Food that is sautéed is browned while preserving its texture, moisture and flavor. Often the sauté may begin on the stove top, where food is browned on both sides, and finished in the oven to gently cook the food (usually meat, in this case) through. If meat, chicken, or fish is sautéed, the sauté is often finished by deglazing the pan’s residue (also known as fond) to make a sauce using a bit of shallot, wine or acid, and stock.

Sautéing is often confused with other dry cooking techniques, such as searing, which browns the surface of a meat to seal in the moisture but does not complete the cooking process, or pan-frying, in which pieces of food are typically cooked in enough oil to reach almost halfway up the ingredient being cooked. When sautéing, a cook should start by preheating a dry pan over medium-high heat to uniformly heat the pan. Right before cooking, enough fat should be added to just cover the bottom of the sauté pan, and the fat should be heated through for a moment or two. Food should be added to the sauté pan once the fat is hot, but not smoking.  

- Olive Oil –

Olive oil is an ideal choice for a heart healthy sauté for a variety of reasons. Overall, olive oil is a great fat to sauté in because sautés are usually done at around 350 degrees F, which is just below olive oil’s smoke point of 360 degrees F. While this low smoke point makes olive oil a poor choice for other cooking methods, like frying, that require a slightly higher oil temperature, it makes it a nice fit for sautéing.

Olive oil is high in mono-unsaturated or “good” fats; olive oil is 77% mono-unsaturated fat, and only 9% poly-unsaturated fat and 14% saturated fat, making it one of the healthiest choices to cook with. High levels of mono fat have the ability to lower cholesterol, while the low level of poly fat does provide some Essential Fatty Acids, like Vitamin E Tocopherol, which are essential to life as every metabolic process in your body depends on them.

- Sesame Oil –

Sesame oil is another great choice for sautéing, and is in fact one of the most commonly used oils used in preparing Asian stir-fry dishes, which use the stir-fry method, one that is very similar to sautéing. What makes sesame oil an ideal match for sautéing is once again, the smoke point. Unrefined sesame oil, which would ideally be used because unrefined sesame oil has naturally intense flavor characteristics and a higher level of micro-nutrients than the refined alternative, has a smoke point of 350 degrees F, which makes it usable for a gentle sauté. Alternatively, refined sesame oil can be used for frying as well as sautéing, as its smoke point is 450 degrees F.

In terms of health benefits, Sesame oil is also chock full of vitamin E, an anti-oxidant that helps lower cholesterol. Sesame oil also contains magnesium, copper, calcium, iron and vitamin B6.

- Method 2: Pan-Frying –

Pan-frying is a method of cooking food that uses a moderate amount of fat and moderate to medium high heat. The food product being cooked is partially submerged (one-third to one-half way up the product) in the fat. Items being pan-fried should be cut to portion size and tender in nature, as the fast cooking process will not tenderize a tough cut of meat or other food product.

Items that are pan-fried are generally coated in either flour or batter, or passed through the standard breading procedure before being pan-fried. The benefits of pan-frying are largely visual and flavor related; this cooking method provides even color development, a protective crust around the food that locks in moisture, and an appealing crisp exterior that is expected in many types of fried foods.

Oils that work best for pan-frying are those that have a high smoke point and a mild, neutral flavor. Traditionally vegetable, peanut, soy and corn oils are used in frying, especially deep-frying, but there are a few other oils that offer potential health benefits and can be used successfully in pan-frying foods.

- Rice Bran Oil -

One such option is rice bran oil, the oil extracted from the germ and inner husk of rice. It is a popular cooking oil in several Asian countries, including Japan and China. While I’ve personally never cooked with this oil, I was instantly intrigued by the research I came across regarding the oil and its redeeming qualities. Rice Bran Oil is one of the most balanced and versatile cooking oils on the market, and comes closer than any other oils to the AHA recommendations (see Appendix: Exhibit 1). Rice bran oil is a superior pan-frying oil because it has no distinctive, strong flavor and leaves no lingering after taste. The high smoke point of 490 degrees F makes this oil able to withstand the high temperatures required for pan-frying.

Unlike many other oils that contain healthy anti-oxidants and fatty acids, the high smoke point of Rice Bran oil prevents fatty acid breakdown at high temperatures, allowing this oil to retain its beneficial properties even at a high cooking temperature. Furthermore, its light viscosity allows less oil to be absorbed in cooking, reducing overall calories in the finished food product.

- Grape Seed Oil -

Grape Seed Oil is also a great oil for pan-frying as it has a moderately high smoke point of approximately 420 degrees F, so it can withstand the hotter temperatures of pan-frying. It also has a very light taste, which is ideal for pan-frying as it will cook and crisp the food without imparting a distinct flavor.

In terms of health benefits, Grape Seed Oil is high in unsaturated fat content and therefore believed to lower cholesterol. Grape seeds also contain antioxidants and other biologically active compounds, but unfortunately the cold-pressed grape seed oil contains negligible amounts due to their insolubility in lipids. Grape seed oil is also way over the recommended 33% of poly-unsaturated fat. In summation, while grape seed oil might provide a slightly smarter choice for pan-frying than some other oils because of its potential to lower cholesterol, it is by no means a “health food.”

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You may not know this about me, but I’m not really that big on frying. I know, I know – some of the most delicious foods out there are dipped in a batter, thrown in scalding oil, and fried until hot, crisp, and finger-licking good. This genre of cuisine includes masterpieces like the french fry and fried Oreo, with everything in between. But I’ve just never been able to get on board. Aside from the obvious implications that eating fried food can have on your health, heart and waistline, frying foods has always seemed to be to be, well, kind of a pain in the butt. Who wants to unload a gallon of Canola oil into a pot on their stove and babysit it while it heats to just the right temperature, only to throw in some food that probably would have tasted fresher and more flavorful if roasted or sautéed, and subsequently wind up covering your kitchen and yourself in a fine layer of grease? So not worth it.

Until now.

I knew this day would come, and sure enough, last Monday was “Fry Day” at culinary school. We walked into the classroom to see a heap of empty plastic oil jugs in the recycle bin, and the stoves covered in huge 5 gallon pots of golden liquid. I sighed and took a big bite of my roasted veggie sandwich, hoping that on some level the fiber in the vegetables would ward off the appeal of greasy food that was sure to set in before long. Did I mention that french fries are my ultimate weakness?

We dove right in, noting that the mise en place for the several fried food recipes we’d be preparing was extensive. Ten pound bags of all-purpose potatoes were attacked on the mandolin; bottles of Corona were popped and dumped to  prepare quarts of beer batter; chickens were cleaned, then halved, then quartered, then cut into eighths. Suddenly, we were ready.

I’d never owned a deep fry or candy thermometer before I started school, but I quickly learned that this little tool takes nearly all of the guess-work out of deep-frying. Most foods are fried at around 360 to 390 degrees F; get too much higher than that, and the oil will start to spontaneously combust, and trust me, that’s something you just don’t want to get into. You think a grease fire is bad? Try grease explosion…

Once we learned the secret to frying – keeping the oil temperature under control – we realized that this cooking method was not only easy, but downright relaxing. You drop something in a pot, walk away, come back in 5 minutes, and it’s cooked? This I can handle.

Added benefit? A crispy, crunchy, savory, rich Buttermilk Tarragon Fried Chicken. Marinated overnight in a herbaceous buttermilk mixture, this chicken is tender, moist and rich with a thick, crunchy and flavorful crust. It’s best eaten fresh, moments after it has finished cooking, hand to mouth. And it beats the pants off of that soggy bucket of Kentucky Fried Chicken garbage, I promise you that. You don’t need to be a Southern fry master to make a practically perfect, extremely impressive, summertime-match-made-in-heaven batch of Fried Chicken. In fact, I’ll teach you how to do it right now so you can go make it tonight. How do you like that?

Buttermilk Tarragon Fried Chicken

Adapted from AllRecipes.com

You’ll need:

  • 1 (3.5 pound) broiler-fryer hicken, broken down (two legs, two thighs, two breasts, two wings)
  • 1 cup of buttermilk
  • 1 cup of all-purpose flour
  • 1/2 tsp of salt
  • 1/2 tsp pepper
  • 4 tablespoons of Dijon or whole grain mustard
  • 4 teaspoons of fresh Tarragon leaves, minced (you can also substitute 2 tsp dry Tarragon)
  • Plus canola oil, for deep-frying

You will also need some tongs, a large pot for frying, a candy or deep fry thermometer, and a sheet pan, ideally with a cooling rack.

Method:

The best way to make this chicken is to marinate it for a full day before you fry it – this will dramatically increase the flavor and tenderness of your finished product. Start one day ahead by prepping your chicken. If you have a whole chicken, break it down into eight pieces, trim and clean it; if you bought a whole chicken in pieces (you can get this at  most grocery stores), just clean up the pieces a little bit to remove any excess fat or grizzle. Remember to leave the skin ON.

Next make your marinade by combining the buttermilk, mustard and tarragon in a large bowl. Add the chicken, toss to coat, and cover tightly with plastic wrap. Refrigerate overnight.

When your chicken has marinated and you’re ready to fry, set up your fry station. AllRecipes recommends the following technique:

“Heat 1/8 to 1/4 in. of oil in a large skillet; fry chicken until browned on all sides. Cover and simmer, turning occasionally, for 40-45 minutes, or until juices run clear and chicken is tender. Uncover and cook 5 minutes longer. Remove chicken; drain on paper towels and keep warm.”

While that certainly works, I prefer the fry-then-bake method. Fill a large pot about two-thirds of the way up with canola oil. Please please use a candy or deep fry thermometer to monitor your temperature – this is not the time for guesswork. Heat the oil to 360 degrees F. Also preheat your oven to 400 degrees, and set up an area where you can allow your fried chicken to drain – a cooling rack over a cookie sheet, or a tray lined with paper towels works well.

Right before you are ready to fry, you want to season and flour your chicken. Start by setting up a tray or bowl of flour and a clean tray for your prepped chicken. Remove the chicken pieces from the marinade, season well with salt and pepper, and toss in the flour to coat well. Place the floured chicken on the tray.

Now, if you want a super-duper extra thick and crunchy crust on your chicken, I’ll let you in on a little secret. You can double dip. Simply dip your flour chicken pieces back into the buttermilk marinade, and then give them another toss in the flour. This will make the difference between a light, thin and crispy exterior, and a thick, crustier one. It’s all in how you like it!

Now that the chicken is all floured and laid out, we’re ready to fry. Grab your tongs and head to the pot. Using your tongs or your hands (be careful!), gently lower each piece of chicken one at a time into the oil. Depending on the size of your pot, you may be able to fit all eight pieces in, or you might not – use your judgement and make sure you don’t over crowd the pot. The chicken pieces should have enough room to bob around in the oil without constantly touching.

Check the chicken after five minutes or so. It should be developing a nice golden brown crust on the outside. Remove the chicken from the oil once it is completely golden brown and crisp all over, about six to eight minutes. Allow it to drain on the cooling rack for a minute or two.

While your chicken has a nice crust, it will not be completely cooked through at this point, so pop the whole tray, cooling rack and all, into your 400 degree oven for about 10 to 15 minutes. It’s important to use a rack when cooking the chicken in the oven because if the underside of chicken rests on a sheet pan, the intense heat from the pan will cause it to burn, rather than remain crispy on that side. I know, ugh! But I don’t make the rules – I just follow them, and trust me, this is what works.

After 10 to 15 minutes, remove your chicken and check for doneness by cutting open your thickest piece of dark meat; if the meat is cooked all the way through, you’re good to go! Let the chicken cool for a moment or too, but not tooooo long, and dig in!

The moral of my story is this: Deep Frying has its place, and it’s a very important one. Will I be breaking out the canola oil and frying up everything in sight in my tiny little kitchen on the regular? Probably not. But the thought of laying down a bright, piping hot platter of this fried chicken on a red checkered table-cloth at a backyard barbecue at the height of summertime turns me on just a little bit. Maybe with a big old pitcher of lemonade. Catch my drift?

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