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Archive for February, 2011

With culinary school slated to start in just a few days (!!!) and the onslaught of recipes that will surely be posted over the course of this new endeavor, I thought I would spend the week before school starts sharing a restaurant review instead. Fortunately for the blog, this past weekend provided ample source material. Unlike my usual haunts, the gastronomical outposts I visited last weekend were from a different land, a somewhat-far-away city, one that is very near and dear to my heart: Washington DC.

The first sort of higher education I ever experienced was down in the DC-metro area, in College Park, Maryland. UMD was an amazing place to spend three and a half years; somewhere where I made friends that would last me a lifetime, and connections that have continued to enhance my life even now, more than two years after graduation (terrifyingly, yes, it has been that long). UMD is also where my love for food and cooking was truly cultivated; it was in the apartment that I lived in junior & senior year that I made a lattice-topped apple pie from scratch, turned a pumpkin into french fries, cooked a medium-rare filet mignon on a searing hot panini press, and roasted red peppers by hand over an electric stove. Yes, college was a wonderful time during which these interests grew and blossomed, and visiting DC always reminds me of those simpler days. It’s no surprise that I love going back to visit any chance I can get.

This weekend, while reminiscing and catching up with old friends, I learned that DCers and New Yorkers aren’t all that different. In fact, what we have in common just might be a universal truth: we all love brunch. I mean really, who doesn’t like brunch? In a 48-hour trip we got in not one, but two deliciously indulgent brunches, complete with alcoholic beverages and high-calorie goodness. One friend enjoyed brunch so much (as he always does) that he proposed we create a new Food Network show where we drive across country and capture all of our mind-blowing brunch adventures from coast to coast. The eggs, the hollandaise, the waffles… ah, but I digress.

The last meal of the trip was on the fashionable M Street in DC’s Georgetown, which one might compare to New York’s Fifth Avenue, or I supposed now, SoHo’s Broadway. It’s an enticing medley of fantastic retail, quirky off-the-beaten-path shops, cupcakeries, and of course, restaurants. These restaurants all seem to have that certain one-of-a-kind unique appeal, in a place where words like “bistro” still have a somewhat exotic effect on passers-by.

One of our gracious hosts of the weekend proposed a group brunch at a restaurant on M Street called Mie N Yu, just a few blocks up the road from our hotel. The proposition was as follows: a three-course brunch, with a cocktail included, in a decently fashionable restaurant, for twenty dollars. Honestly, a twenty-dollar price tag will sell me on most things, and a three-course meal plus cocktail was definitely near the top of the list. Hence, Mie N Yu it was.

Now, I had never been to Mie N Yu before this weekend, but I’d heard of the restaurant back in college when a girl who lived in my dorm sophomore year was whisked away to Mie N Yu by her older, more sophisticated senior boyfriend for a romantic Valentine’s Day dinner. Left only with her vague recollection of the restaurant’s wonders, Mie N Yu had always held a bit of a mystique for me, and I was glad to be able to visit the restaurant for myself.

Upon entering, we were greeted by a friendly older host, who took our coats and pointed us to the bar where we could wait for the rest of our party. But fifteen minutes later, the rest of our party had yet to appear, and the host returned. He asked us if we would like a tour of the restaurant, which to my own eyes seemed mostly in sight. Still, my two other friends graciously accepted Carl, the host’s, offer.

“You’re standing in the Hong Kong bar,” Carl explained at once, motioning around the room with one hand.

“You’ll notice that the bar is shellacked with these Mahjong tiles that are covered in Chinese characters and symbols. Mahjong is a traditional game played in Hong Kong, not all that different from the American game of solitare.” We all stepped forward to get a closer look at the small white tiles covered in green and red swooshes that were inlayed in the black, shiny bar. They not only looked, but also felt exotic and mysterious. “A lot of the different decorations that you’ll see throughout the restaurant are completely authentic,” Carl continued. I suppose we had all fixed him with curious gazes, because he stopped, and then explained further.

“A lot of people assumed that Mie N Yu is an ‘Asian-Fusion’ restaurant, but it’s not. The restaurant was conceptualized off of the Ancient Silk Road that ran from Southern Europe, through the Middle East, to Asia. Mie N Yu is more of a mélange of different cultures and types of food than fusion – North Africa, what you might call Moroccan, Middle Eastern, Mediterranean, Southeast Asian.”

He took a step backward and continued back into the restaurant, leading us into another space that was set up on a floor, raised about two feet above the ground. The entryway to this room was hung with thick layers of tapestry and drapes of beige and deep burgundy.

“Traditional Turkish wedding tent drapes,” he told us, reaching out to stroke the drapes with one hand. “These were actually sourced all the way from Turkey by our interior designer. We call this room the Turkish Tent, and it can be reserved for private parties.” He leaned casually on the black velvet rope partitioning the room off from the rest of the restaurant. “When this room is full of people, and the smells and sights of food, it’s hard to feel like you’re not actually in Turkey, experiencing this for real.”

We were still staring over our shoulders at the Turkish tent as the host turned a corner on the first floor and led us into the main dining area, which as he explained, transitioned from a daytime theme to a nighttime theme as one walked from the front to the back of the restaurant, the lighting and blue color of the walls darkening as one descended. He drew our attention to the way each booth was set beneath a draping, colorful sheath of striped fabric, propped up on poles, just like a traditional Moroccan bazaar.

We then walked up to the second level of Mie N Yu, where our hands grazed a wrought-iron banister that was hand-forged on the other side of the planet, hanging under the seemingly misplaced decadent crystal chandelier of the building’s original owner. “Her,” Carl said, pointing to the wall opposite the chandelier where a larger than life oil painting depicted the portrait of good Lady Mie-N-Yu, the original woman of the assumedly wondrous house this restaurant used to be. Upward, we went.

Upstairs were even more rooms, but these were more private in nature. There was the Venetian Lounge, where one wall was covered in tens of mirrors, all of different shapes, sizes, and colors, all from the legendary sinking city of Venice.

Beyond that was the Tibetan Lounge, most commonly used for private parties or Mie N Yu’s weekend “In The Cut” dance party events, but which was currently being used for a quite serious looking photo shoot, which we breezed past. I had the sudden sensation that I was on a movie set, floating eerily past extravagant decor where neither the people nor the artifacts they meandered past took notice of my presence.

Finally, we came to the show stealer, which Carl had clearly been saving for last. The Bird’s Nest.

A wrought iron masterpiece that hangs, suspended between the first and second floors of Mie N Yu, accessible only via a gangplank-ish pathway. The Bird’s Nest is perfectly round, with a smaller round table inside the larger spherical confines. The benches surrounding the table are covered in super-plush silk pillows (I know because, of course, I had to sit in it). Carl easily informed us: “Anyone can rent out The Bird’s Nest for their own private party. It goes for about $500 on a weeknight, and starts at $900 on the weekend.” We immediately began plotting various occasions for which we could rationalize renting out this awesome dining space.

Back on the main floor, my mind was slightly blown by all there was to know about this restaurant, when the executive chef walked by. He was in a hurry, and didn’t respond when our host greeted him. Carl merely smiled, and said to us with a knowing grin, “That’s the executive chef. Sometimes you say hello, and sometimes you don’t.” Carl chuckled, and I faked a grin. This wasn’t the first statement of the weekend that left me with a sense of foreboding about my academic endeavors to come, but I shook it off upon catching a whiff of some food from the kitchen.

Because yes! After all of that, a tour through the gastronomical Silk Road, there was still, after all, a meal to be had, and at that precise moment the rest of our party arrived, and we were seated. To my delight, we were escorted to a booth directly below the famed Bird’s Nest – also perfectly round and lined with the most comfortable pillows ever (which we would later learn, were quite dangerous in encouraging a post-brunch food coma).

Now it was time for laughter, light conversation, undoubted banter, but most importantly, food! Almost immediately we were offered brunch cocktails – either a mimosa, or a Bloody Mary. While Bloody Marys aren’t usually my thing, I was feeling risky on this particular morning, so I went for it. And boy, am I happy I did. This was by far the best Bloody Mary to ever hit my lips. It was light and refreshing, served on a ton of rocks, rather than thick and gelatinous like terrible Bloodies can be. It had just the slightest hint of pepper and spice, and other than adding a hint of sweetness, the alcohol was virtually undetectable. A great start to the meal.

Next up was the first course: The Good Morning Sunshine. I was a bit skeptical of how an Eastern Mélange restaurant, as we’ll call it, could pull off a regional yogurt parfait, but they did it. Something about the way the dried apricots were mixed in with fresh strawberries, crunchy granola, and extremely tangy Greek yogurt gave this dish a distinct far-away feel – something an All-American parfait surely would not do. I would eat one of these every morning for the rest of my life if I could.

Mie N Yu also offered a delicious Bombay Peanut Salad made of mixed greens tossed in a toasted cumin and yogurt vinaigrette. Probably the first time in my life I’ve turned down an interesting salad (no regrets, clearly), but I did snag a bite and it sure was tasty. I can’t wait to recreate this dressing at home!

Then we were on to the main course. Mie N Yu offers two breakfast options – Eggs Benedict, and Banana Walnut Pancakes (not sure which stops on the Silk Road these were, but it sort of seemed rude to ask) – as well as one lunchier option. Since it was already two in the afternoon, I opted for the Korean Bulgogi Sandwich, and never looked back. After one bite I realized that despite already being somewhat full from the parfait, and knowing that a third dessert course lay beyond, I had no choice. It was me and this sandwich, on a journey, and I was destined to finish every last bite. Yep, it was that good.

Imagine meat as soft and tender as pulled pork, but with that amazing soy sauce tang of the best Chinese beef you’ve ever had. Then think of it, resting on a soft, floury roll, with layers of tangy cabbage and radish forming the kimchee around it. Throw in a spicy kick from the aioli, which will be running down your fingers with the beef’s juices in just a second, and you’ve got yourself one hell of a sandwich. Oh, and with a side of fries. No big deal.

Needless to say, I was pretty quiet during this portion of the meal. I always feel the sign of great cuisine is when everyone at the table just shuts up and eats. Some find silence awkward, but I kind of feel like there’s no time the ancient “silence is golden” proverb is more true than at that moment when the food is set down.

Dessert was probably the least impressive part of this meal; that’s not to say it wasn’t very good, it’s just to say that the kitchen ran out of one of the two dessert options – tiramisu, failed to replace it, and that at this point everyone was too stuffed and suffering from over-stimulated taste buds to care much. We all enjoyed the Asian Pear Strudel, which was pretty much a mini apple turnover, but with pear. The one exciting element of the dish was the “pomegranate creme anglaise,” which we decided was most likely a pomegranate balsamic reduction and added an tangy tart bite to each morsel of the strudel, which was buttery and sweet. What can I say? I ate all of that, too.

Most of the remainder of my day, including one four-hour bus ride back to New York, was spend with a serious case of the “fulls” – like, “so full I can barely move” full, or “I should probably take a nap til I digest” full. But honestly, it was one-hundred-percent worth it, because not only did I discover a restaurant that I came to know and completely love for its food and its concept, but I also know this: DC is for foodies. Move over, New York. You have East Coast competition.

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I know it’s a little late in the game for a Valentine’s Day recipe, but I just couldn’t resist posting this one. I must have been good this year, because I was lucky enough to recieve a sweet Valentine’s surprise in the form of this delicious indulgence this February 14th. Did I mention that Chocolate Soufflé is hands-down my absolute favorite dessert in the entire world? It’s enough to convert any non-chocolate fan into a full fledged chocoholic, and once you’ve had a good one, it’s bound to make into your top five dessert list (Tiramisu is totally losing that number 1 spot). For me, that happy moment was about a year ago in a little cafe in Astoria, Queens, called Mundo. Yes, that was good…

But this was better:

If for some strange reason, you still can’t imagine why Chocolate Soufflé is my favorite dessert, let me offer you Exhibit B:

Yes, there’s something about Chocolate Souffle that just seems inherently romantic, and sure, that made it particularly appropriate for the holiday that just passed. But guess what the best part is about telling (or better yet, showing) someone that you love them? It’s totally appropriate and 100% appreciated all year round, not just mid-February. So if you were having trouble thinking about what particular excuse you’d need to whip one of these babies up, search no further – because the truth is, you really don’t need an excuse!

In fact, all you need are some eggs, a nice rich bag of chocolate chip morsels, and a hand-blender (or one hell-of-a strong arm) and you’re pretty much set. Don’t believe me? The five-ingredient long list is below. So spend 10 bucks, take 30 minutes, and show someone just how important they are to you. Trust me, it’s totally worth scrubbing the chocolate off your kitchen floor the next morning.

Mini Chocolate Soufflés with Chocolate Sauce - Makes 4 6-oz Soufflés

For the Soufflé:

  • 2 tsp unsalted butter, room temperature
  • 1/2 cup granulated sugar
  • 8 ounces of semisweet chocolate, fine chopped (chips work too)
  • 4 large egg whites
  • 3 large egg yolks
  • 1/4 cup of a flavored liquour (we used Pomegrate Liquour)

To start, preheat the oven to 400 F. Grease each of the 4 individual ramekins extremely well, and sprinkle each with 1 teaspoon of sugar.

Then, set up your double boiler, or if you don’t have one, a pot filled with about 1 inch of simmering water, topped with a glass or metal bowl. Add the chocolate to the bowl, and slowly melt, whisking consistently and adjusting the heat as needed to prevent scalding. Once the chocolate is smooth and melted, turn off the flame.

Next, in a mixing bowl which the egg whites with 1/4 cup of sugar until they are stiff and glossy. If you’ve ever made a merengue before, the expression is “stiff peaks” – essentially, you want the egg whites to be foamy, and hold their form in little peaks when you pull the beaters out of them. They should look like snow-capped mountains :) Once your egg whites have peaked, set them aside.

Back to the chocolate – add your egg yolks to the melted chocolate one at a time, whisking to combine. Then add your liquour, and whisk in the remaining sugar.

Now, the part that requires a little skill and patience. You want to very gently fold the egg whites into the chocolate. The important part is to do this slowly, and carefully, using a wide spatula to lift the chocolate sauce from the bottom of the bowl, over the egg whites, to maintain as much air as possible. After each fold, rotate the bowl 90 degrees. Under no circumstance should you whisk or stir this mixture – that is, unless you want it to be ruined. A soufflé will only rise if the air bubbles from the stiff egg whites is preserved, so fold gently, and carefully, until you have an evenly brown, airy, jiggly mixture.

After that, you’re pretty much golden! Pour the chocolate mixture into the ramekins, place the ramekins on a baking sheet, and bake them until they are puffed and somewhat firm, beginning to crack on top – about 20 minutes. Remove from the oven, and serve immediately with chocolate sauce and powdered sugar. And enjoy the thanks you will surely receive.

Before…

and after…

It really doesn’t get better than that…

For the Chocolate Sauce:

  • Leftover semi-sweet chocolate chips
  • Half and Half
  • Butter

To be honest, we were big-time winging it here, but I will say this – start by melting about 4 ounces of semi sweet chips. Once they are melted add a tsp of butter and a dash of half and half, whisking to combine, and taste it. Depending on your own preference, continue to add half and half until the sauce has reached your desired consistency – and this can range from Hershey’s-syrup-thin, to extremely thick and luscious. You get to eat it, so you get to decide. Just whatever you do, don’t forget the sauce.

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My mission this week was to cook a different healthy dinner every night, meals that would fill me up without weighing me down. That’s not always my mantra, but after a weekend of this

…you sort of need that.

If you can appreciate that sentiment, maybe you’ll relate to this too: Have you ever spent the whole morning just sitting around, wondering what to do with all the glorious fresh basil and pungent cloves of garlic you have on hand? Ever daydream, for tens of minutes on end, about tender semolina boccatini enveloped in tangy pesto; a roasted garlic, tomato and buffalo mozzarella salad drizzled in basil-infused olive oil; a warm hearty tomato bisque that will pull you out of your winter seasonal affective “issues”?

Or maybe you just got back from the corner market, where you realized that fresh basil and garlic are two of the only fresh ingredients that can be purchased in New York on the cheap - without forking over your unborn first child as collateral. And that basil plus garlic equals a flavor of summer that can’t be hindered by freezing rain and icy sidewalks, even if your morning commute is.

It was out of this sentiment that Heirloom Tomato Basil Bisque was born.

This soup is thick, savory, and hearty, and feels “stick to your ribs” good, without the added fat or dairy. It would be great as a starter for a wintry dinner, or as a main course with some shredded cheese on top, or with some brown rice, barley, or orzo mixed it, or with a poached egg on top. AND it only takes about 15 minutes to make! After thinking it through, I realized this sounded like just about everything I look for in a weeknight dinner, and so off I went.

Heirloom Tomato Basil Bisque (serves 1)

Ingredients:

  • 1 cup of baby heirloom tomatoes (regular cherry tomatoes would work, too)
  • 1 clove of garlic, sliced thin
  • 1/2 cup of carrots or baby carrots, chopped
  • 1/4 cup of pumpkin puree / canned pumpkin
  • 1/4 cup of vegetable stock, plus more on hand if needed
  • 1 tbsp of olive oil
  • 4 – 5 large fresh basil leaves, chiffonade, plus extra for garnish
  • 1/2 tsp dried oregano
  • Sea salt and fresh cracked black pepper, to taste.

To start, heat the olive oil over medium heat in a medium-sized sauce pan. Add the tomatoes, whole, and the garlic, and saute until the tomatoes begin to singe and caramelize on the outside, about 3 to 4 minutes. Then add the chopped carrots and continue to saute until soft, about 3 to 4 minutes more. Be careful not to burn the garlic – that will completely ruin the dish, and you’ll have to start over. The tomatoes should eventually burst from the heat, but if they are softening and not bursting, you can give them a hand with a fork or knife.

Once the tomatoes and carrots have softened, add the vegetable stock, pumpkin puree, oregano, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Stir well, and bring the mixture to a simmer. Allow to simmer for another few minutes until all the ingredients are incorporated, and the carrots are completely soft. Then add the basil and stir into the soup so the basil wilts.

Now, if you prefer a more rustic soup, you can leave this chunky, as it is. Or, you can make it a bit smoother and creamier by pureeing it using an immersion blender, a regular blender or a food processor. If you want to add an extra hit of richness, you can stir in a tablespoon of half-and-half, or cream cheese. My decision?

I opted for an over-easy egg right on top, garnished with basil. The runny yolk of the egg thickened up the soup wonderfully, and added the creaminess and richness I was looking for while also providing lots of healthy protein. Plus, it gave me a use for one of the leftover eggs in my fridge.

Did I mention the whole thing was ready in 15 minutes? Yup….

So go ahead, and put some summertime in your winter suppers. Nothing works better to combat those wintertime blues ;)

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In the world of Manhattan dining bests – best pizza, best food truck, best on-trend-cupcake – no genre of restaurant chomps on the bit quite so fiercely, nor has so much at stake (pun intended) as that of the New York City Steakhouse. With a selection that includes Benjamins, BLT, Del Frisco’s, and Wolfgang’s, few cities can serve up a medium-rare masterpiece like The City That Never Sleeps….

And of the best, none do their thing better than Peter Luger’s. The top rated steakhouse in New York for over two decades, few can deny that Luger has earned its rightful place in this spot, and I rest with the majority; an annual trip to the Peter Luger’s of Great Neck has been part of my family’s tradition for the past five years. And for the past five years, we all wait for weeks, with mouth-watering anticipation, until the date of the Luger reservation arrived, upon which time we would all feast to our hearts content, leave with stretched waist bands, and already the itching anticipation of another year-long wait.

But what, you might ask, makes Luger’s steaks not only special, but among the best in the country? Well, Peter Luger’s has been around for over 120 years, which is plenty of time to perfect their steak-selection process. Members of the Luger clan frequent the wholesale meat markets daily to scour for the best fresh cuts of Midwestern beef. Their criteria are stringent, and unwavering: only the short loin (a very tender and highly desirable portion of the porterhouse section of meat) can be used; the meat must come from cattle graded “PRIME” by the USDA; the meat must be a fresh pink color, with an even marbling of fat throughout.

 Yet again, proof that if you use the best quality ingredients, the masses will come.

If a cut of short loin is lucky enough to be selected, the folks at Luger’s bring it back to the restaurant and dry-age it in-house, in a temperature-controlled room where cool air circulates around the meat.

Now, upon first instinct, dry-aging might sound, well, kind of gross. Letting meat sit out in the open air is one of the first “no-no’s” most cooks learn. But in a temperature and circulation controlled environment, the process of aging can occur relatively risk free, working its magic. And by magic, I mean science. Here’s how it works (according to Wikipedia):

With a recommended aging time of four weeks, dry-aging enhances beef by two means:  First, moisture is evaporated from the muscle, creating a greater concentration of beef flavor and taste. Second, the beef’s natural enzymes break down the connective tissue in the muscle, which leads to more tender beef.

And the result?

This is what Peter Luger’s is all about.

The restaurant itself is the perfect backdrop for these aged porterhouses. The rustic, Germanesque interior is laid out across several cozy rooms, in which broad tables are lined with white linens, which will inevitably be stained by the ravenous eating which ensues as soon as the steak is set down.

As soon as you are seated, a waiter instantly appears with a large basket of crusty, homemade rolls (the onion rolls are by far the best), sweet, creamy butter, and tureens full of Luger’s house steak sauce. Let it be known that their steak needs absolutely zero sauce, which is perhaps why the sauce is brought out with the rolls – the bread provides a mild, understated base to this delicious, horseradishy, tomatoey sauce. This sauce is actually rather surprising upon first taste, as it immediately tastes like a cocktail sauce from the inclusion of horseradish – but the traditional steak sauce notes can be detected upon further sampling, as the Worcestershire, tomato, and molasses flavors come through. Finger lickin’ good!

The waiters must be highly trained, because they also immediately take your drink order, all in one swoop. We had started out at the bar with the dirtiest dirty martini (and by that, I mean the best) I’d ever had. Obviously, the next logical step was a full bodied red, a rich Cabernet from Chile.

The Porterhouses are served family style – you can order the steak for two, three, four, or a steak for one, or the prime rib. We went for the Porterhouse for four, seared to medium-rare perfection, and the result was magnificent.

This steak tastes as though it were marinated in butter before cooked – so tender and smooth is the texture of the meat. It’s ridiculously flavorful, with tangy savory juices that ooze from each slice, a testament to the success of dry aging. Alongside, we had an order of creamed spinach – officially the best way ever to eat green vegetables – as well as hashed brown potatoes, and onion rings. All the sides are delicious, but with a show stopper like this steak, they were easily an afterthought.

And just when you thought eating several pounds of red meat was enough, enter Schlag. Schlag is essentially a German homemade whipped cream, but while the menu says “whipped cream,” what it really means is “churned-just-short-of-butter cream.” We all immediately doled huge scoops of this into our coffees, forgoing the normal sugar and cream.

We capped off the meal with a trio of desserts, all of which got an ample heap of Schlag - first, a rich, refreshing cheesecake, which even my brother, who is a cheesecake maven, couldn’t finish; a dense chocolate mousse cake that had a crisp chocolate crust I would liken to an oreo cookie. And my favorite, the traditional Apple Strudel, with tender, cinnamon-sugar slivers of apple wrapped in layer upon layer of crisp puffy pastry, topped with a light dusting of confectioner’s sugar. Does this seem a bit over the top, perhaps a bit too much food for just one person?

What some call gluttony, I call opportunity…

So there you have it, friends - an evening at Peter Luger’s, in a nut-shell. So what’s the flip side? Well, this place is certainly not cheap. It’s a special occasion sort of place – where you go to celebrate an important birthday, or a new job, or a new baby. But when you think about it, really, what better way is there to celebrate life? Take the Luger Porterhouse Challenge – and get back to me!

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