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Archive for November, 2010

Some will argue that summer is the pinnacle of pie season. All that fresh fruit… blueberries, raspberries, rhubarb – you could make pies galore! But for many, autumn will always spell the beginning of a pie time of year, when the weather is cold and a rich, flaky pastry crust filled with a creamy, sweet confection finally feels just right.

Pumpkin Pie epitomizes this sentiment, from the moment it is conceived in the weeks leading up to Halloween when the deep orange pumpkins of fall just start to ripen. Then, as November arrives and Jack-O-Lanterns are discarded, pumpkins find a new purpose in our meals, as they are pureed into soups, mashes, breads, muffins, and pies. Hundreds of years ago, Native Americans brought the finest pumpkins of their harvest as gifts to the New World settlers, and in the present-day now, you’ll be hard-pressed to find a pumpkin pie missing from your table on Thanksgiving. But after trying this Pumpkin-Ginger pie recipe from Locanda Verde’s pastry chef Karen DeMasco, you’ll want this pie front and center of your dessert buffet for every holiday party, Christmas dinner, and New Year’s celebration that’s to come this year. Because nothing says decadence quite like a classic pastry with a modern twist – and that is what this pie is all about.

To start, you’ll need to spend a little time at your local grocery store, gathering all sorts of magical ingredients. You’ll need:

INGREDIENTS for the Crust:

  • 1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
  • 1 1/2 tsp. sugar
  • 3/4 tsp. kosher salt
  • 1 stick unsalted butter, chilled and cut into small pieces
  • 1/4 cup lard, cold

INGREDIENT for the Filling:

  • 3 large eggs
  • 1 cup heavy cream
  • 1/2 cup maple syrup
  • 1/4 cup dark-brown sugar
  • 1 tbs. finely grated ginger
  • 1 3/4 cups fresh pumpkin (or 15-oz. canned pumpkin purée)
  • 1 tsp. cinnamon
  • 1/4 tsp. cloves
  • 1/2 tsp. fresh nutmeg
  • 1 tsp. kosher salt

Then, get to work making your own pie crust. Sure, you could go store-bought, but why? I promise, this takes less than 20 minutes to make, and is way easier than any pastry-making trials and tribulations you may have heard in the past.

To start, place the flour, sugar, and salt into a large mixing bowl. Add the butter and lard, and mix with a pastry blender or fork (or even cut the butter into small pieces with two knives – trust me, you can work with what you’ve got!) until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs. Add 1/4-cup ice water, using your hands to mix the dough together. Then, on a clean surface, shape the dough into a flattened disk. Wrap the disk in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour.

Once the dough has chilled in the fridge (and feel free to leave it in the fridge as long as overnight – I did, and it worked out great), roll out the dough into an 11-inch round on a floured surface. Center the dough on a 9-inch pie plate, pressing into the edges, and trim the dough to the rim. Then, stick the dough-covered pie plate back in the fridge and chill for 10 more minutes. In the meantime you can shape the remaining scraps of dough into a disk, wrap in plastic wrap, and refrigerate those too. They’ll come in handy later ;) Oh, and go preheat your oven to 375 degrees.

Once your pie crust has chilled out in the fridge, bring it back front and center, and get ready to bake! Line the pie shell with a round of parchment paper or foil, leaving a 1-inch overhang. Then, fill with pie weights. Or, if you are a normal home cook and are saying to yourself, “Pie-weights, what-now?” go get some dried beans or lentils out of your pantry and fill the parchment-lined pie shell with those. Us home cooks are nothing if not resourceful.

Bake the crust for 15 to 20 minutes until the edges begin to turn golden. Remove the parchment and pie weights, er, lentils… And return the crust to the oven to continue baking for about 10 more minutes until it appears to be flaky and golden. You know, like a pastry… Right… Now the crust is done, so set the whole pie plate on the table or a wire rack  and let it cool completely. There’s still a bit to do, so you’ll have plenty to keep you busy while the crust cools.

Now, it’s time to make the filling! This filling is what makes this pie phenomenal – it has a few secret (well, not any more…), irresistibly scrumptious ingredients that kick it up a few (thousand…) notches and make it the most unique pumpkin pie you’ve ever had.

Now look. By now you’re probably thinking, “This seems like wayyyy to much work on to of everything else I have to cook for this holiday dinner party. Costco’s got a great pumpkin pie and no one has ever complained about a Costco dessert.” I know it’s easy to go out to the store and buy a pumpkin pie. Maybe even a gourmet, special, different pumpkin pie. But, humor me  while I give you a short scenario. A certain family member of mine dug the last, slightly smushed, left over slice of this pie out of the fridge last night, five days after Thanksgiving, the day on which it was made and served, and after a week of hanging out in the not-always-friendly-fridge, the pie was still able to elicit the following response:

“So I finished the last ample slice of pumpkin pie last night, and after the sensory overload subsided, it knocked my socks off! The ginger came fizzing through!”

That’s right – GINGER. Also, maple syrup. Ready to venture onward? Okay – let’s go!

First, reduce the oven temperature to 350 degrees. Gather your filling ingredients, measuring cups, measuring spoons, and whisk around a large bowl. Whisk the eggs, cream, maple syrup, brown sugar, and ginger together until well combined and smooth. In a second bowl, mix the pumpkin, cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, and salt until that’s smooth, too; then add the egg mixture in, and whisk to combine.

That’s it! Pour filling into cooled pie shell, and give yourself a pat on the back! The hard part is done.

Now, if you want to get decorative, DeMasco recommends the following: Roll out the refrigerated disk of dough to about 1/4-inch thick. Using a 1/2-inch cookie cutter, cut out 40 pieces of dough. Once the crust is cool, fan and press the cutouts to form a lip around the edge of the crust. Chill the cooked crust lined with cutouts for 10 minutes.

I went with a festive leaf cookie cutter to make the rim. Despite the aroma and taste of this pie, let’s face it – we’re all visual creatures, so I definitely recommend taking the extra 15 minutes to cut out some holiday pastry shapes and dressing your pie up a bit.

Bake the pie on the center rack of the oven for about 60 minutes (rotating after 30 minutes) or until the center has a slight jiggle. Serve each slice with some freshly whipped cream, such as DeMasco’s brandy whipped cream, which includes 2 cups heavy cream, 2 tbs. sugar, and 1/4 cup brandy, or something simpler, like heavy cream, a dash of confectioner’s sugar, and some vanilla extract.

So, there you have it! A quick and easy (okay, so not really at all, but really, what good things in life are?) Pumpkin-Ginger-Maple-Brandy-Heaven-like-presents-under-a-fresh-pine-tree-Christma-hannuk-kwanza-practically-perfect-in-every-way Pie (in the sky). But who needs superlatives? The proof is in the pudding (read: pie filling), and in the smiles of pure bliss that will surely overcome your guests’ faces when they dig into a slice of this goodness this holiday season.

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As we enter December, we have one wonderful food-filled holiday right behind us, and another just a few weeks away. And in this rare moment of calm before the Holiday Season unfolds, I want to take a moment to say how truly thankful I am for all the amazing love, luck, and happiness I have in my life, thanks to my amazing family, friends, and random moments of joy that manage to sneak their way into my life when I least expect it. I hope that on the heels of Thanksgiving, this December provides the opportunity for all of us to find new ways to be grateful, and thank those people we love most by sharing with them great experiences, great food, lots of love, and of course, making new memories.

This year, I am so thankful that I had the amazing opportunity to spend two days creating exciting dishes and experimenting in my parent’s kitchen in order to create the Thanksgiving spread for my family. I’m also extremely thankful that everyone in my family are such fabulous chefs, and that we all were able to collaborate bring something unique and outstanding to the table this year. From the Sweet Potato casserole topped with candied pecans, to the stuffing packed with sweet Italian sausage, butternut squash, and cranberries, to the sweet, moist cornbread that was full of whole kernels of tender corn, this year’s feast felt very much like the real first Thanksgiving, with everyone traveling with their own special dishes to join together and give thanks for a beautiful meal.

With that, I’d like to share with all of you some of my favorite culinary memories that came out of the Krupin kitchen this Thanksgiving.

Fresh, thick, bubbling heavy cream – one of the essential ingredients in Locanda Verde’s Pumpkin-Ginger Pie.

Gleaming, scrubbed white button mushrooms are just waiting to be stuffed with a savory, buttery, cheesy filling and eagerly devoured by the entire family.

Mix flour, butter, lard, and sugar. Chill, roll, and relish in the ease of making your own homemade pie crust.

The extra scraps of dough find a new home as dainty autumn leaves of butter and sugar, which will create a festive ring around this pie.

Nothing brings me back to my childhood more than the captivating aroma that rises from a cast iron pan full of garlic and shallots sweating in a bath of hot olive oil.

Christine’s Words to Live By: There are few things in life that cannot be made better by the marriage of sage and butter. Thanksgiving Turkey is surely one of them.

A classic French Pissaladiere finds a new home at our Thanksgiving table, where the flavors of basil, tomato, soft onions, tart olives, and sweet sun-dried tomatoes flew right off the table and into hungry mouths.

Smoky pancetta, garlic, and shallots caramelize in the hopes of soon coating crisp, aldente green beans and toasted slivers of almond for Green Beans Almondine.

Finally complete are the stuffed mushrooms, an absolute staple for all holiday functions.

A homemade cranberry sauce was the star of this year’s spread. Cranberry juice cocktail, whole fresh cranberries, dried cranberries, dried tart cherries, lime pulp and zest, currant jelly, allspice, cinnamon sticks, an orange peel, and a sprinkle of brown sugar make the best cranberry sauce you’ve ever eaten. Great on turkey, ice cream, or plain with just you and a spoon.

Stuffed with rosemary, onions, and garlic, and smothered inside, outside, and under the skin with a creamy sage butter, this bird was ready to roast.

The finished Pumpkin-Ginger Pie topped with freshly whipped Madagascar Vanilla Cream, a dessert that will get you through to springtime.

And finally, our turkey emerged from its steamy oven (owed in large part to the pan of Sauvignon Blanc that joined it in the oven to keep it moist), with crisp, buttery skin and moist, tender meat. This bird proves that brining isn’t always needed for a great Thanksgiving turkey.

Happy Holidays to All!!

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Welcome to the West Village, or to some, “The Old Italian Neighborhood,” one of the oldest neighborhoods in New York City. Last Saturday, the afternoon was blissfully spent meandering these streets, popping in and out of some their landmark shops and restaurants, and sampling a bit of this and a bit of that.

All of this was thanks to a great recommendation I received about Foods of New York cultural food walking tours. These tours are extremely affordable, and you get a serious bang for your buck, with food samples that border on normal sized portions from several West Village establishments and non-stop anecdotes into New York culture, history, and architecture. After recommending this tour to several friends, who all raved about it, but never actually trying it myself, last Saturday seemed the perfect opportunity to step out and take in the unfamiliar in a relatively familiar neighborhood. Which just goes to show you, there can be surprises waiting for you even in your own backyard.

The following is a “photo walking tour” of the West Village – hopefully these pictures will inspire you to try a tour of your own, and get a fresh perspective – whether as a local or a tourist – of what Greenwich Village has to offer.

We started smack dab in the middle of Bleecker Street, between Murray’s Cheese Shop and Faicco’s, an over 100-year-old family owned shop.

After a brief introduction to our very pregnant and subsequently hilarious tour guide, and distribution of our “only napkin of the day,” we made our way around the corner for a “slice of pie” – the quintessential slice of New York style thin crust pizza.

This pie was good – verrrry good. While I don’t feel it can hold a torch to Keste, or even Grimaldi’s, this is pizza for the “pizza purist,” made simply with pureed San Marzano tomatoes, not sauce, and all the freshest ingredients. The crust of a New York style pizza, we learned, gets its unique flavor, bite, and crispness not from the type of flour used, but from the soft New York City water. That’s part of the reason why New York pizza is unlike any other.

Keeping with the Italian tradition of the neighborhood, we moved right along to Faicco’s, where we sampled old-school rice balls, just like my grandmother used to make. They were crispy and just the right amount of greasy on the outside, soft, cheesy, and a little bit sweet on the inside. Eating one standing outside in the crispy November air felt like the perfect and only way these should be eaten – just one – to make it count.

Then, we were off down Cornelia Street, a beautiful tree-lined street that is home to many of New York’s most enjoyable dining experiences. These restaurants are small, hole-in-the-wall type places where you could get lost in your meal, and spend hours deep in conversation over a glass of wine. With culinary showmanship of Home, Po, Palma, Little Havana, The Cornelia Street Cafe, Pearl Oyster Bar, and Le Gigot all on one short stretch of pavement, it’s hard to resist the allure of Cornelia Street…

Not to mention, it’s beautiful – a term not often used to describe Manhattan.

First stop was Little Havana, a Cuban cuisine outpost where the 76-year-old owner and head chef opened early to serve us small bites of smoky chorizo atop crispy crostini, with spicy mustard and  ropa vieja (shredded marinated steak) layered in between. This was debatably the most delicious, flavorful, provoking thing we tasted that day.

Back out on Cornelia Street, we were given a little history lesson on the “back houses” of Greenwich Village – secret cottages that are hidden behind brownstones and apartment buildings, and marked by mysterious “half” addresses, like the one that leads to the Palma back house.

Coincidentally, this back house was the very house where the original “Cornelia” for whom the street is named grew up. And right next door to 28.5 Cornelia Street is Palma, one of my favorite restaurants in the city, the sort of Uva of Greenwich Village, though Palma would probably argue that Uva is the Palma of the Upper East Side. Either way, Palma is fantastic and has a chocolate souffle that will make you swoon. You certainly should not take my word for it though. You should try it yourself.

Through the restaurant and its garden, we made our way into the back house.

The word charming isn’t quite enough to describe this room; with its brick fireplace, rustic flower arrangements, soft white porcelain pottery, and worn wooden table, it felt like every kitchen should feel, except it was a kitchen-turned-fine dining event space. Here we ate an equally rustic, homey, and pure dish, made by flash-sauteeing cauliflower florets in a screeching hot cast iron pan, then adding toasted pignoli nuts (pine nuts), dried currants which have been soaked in extra virgin olive oil, caramelized onions, and a touch of toasted breadcrumb at the end. The result could be likened to a cross between homemade stuffing, risotto, and of course, roasted cauliflower, with only the best flavors of each. This dish alone is reason enough to visit Palma.

And then we were out, back onto the street, and off to a brief siesta at the local wine bar and bistro, Centro Vinoteca, where the white wine was crisp and the mushroom risotto was velvety and luxurious.

After this, we had a bit of walking was in store for us, and I now know that there are few things quite as fun as a late afternoon stroll around the West Village’s quaint side streets after a couple of glasses of wine. The sidewalks seem to sing, everything seems a cross between silly and romantic, and you will certainly forget your are in Manhattan for a little while.

Along the way, we came across The Little Owl, which I’ve blogged about here in the past, another of my favorite restaurants.

After a good deal of meandering, during which we learned about architecture, brick work, how to estimate the age of a building, and why New York sidewalks are lined with iron strips, it was time for dessert. Well, Dessert: Part One.

If you are a cookie fan of any sort, this is the place for you. Milk & Cookies bakery not only makes several varieties of large, soft, gooey, melt-in-your-mouth delicious cookies, but they will also sell you the mix, or give you two cookies with a great big scoop of ice cream in the middle and call it the best ice cream sandwich you’ve ever had. We were lucky enough to try the oatmeal chocolate chip, which was still warm in the center and did not disappoint. One gentleman on our tour was not feeling well, and when he mentioned to his wife that she would have to eat his cookie too, well, let’s just say that was one of the biggest smiles we’d seen all day.

We made our way back to home base – Bleecker Street – for a quick tour through Murray’s Cheese Shop, followed by an on-the-street tasting (I should mention that nearly everything we at that day was devoured while standing on a street corner).

Finally, our last stop, the grand finale of the food tour, was Rocco’s, more formally known as Pasticerria Rocco, a pastry shop that has held court on Bleecker Street since 1922, and for good reason.

Some of those reasons include pies…

And linzer tarts…

… Oh, and of course, cannoli. But not just any cannoli. Cannoli made the old-school, traditional Italian way, with a baked-then-deep-fried shell filled with a sweet and rich ricotta cheese cream, flecked with candied lemon and mini chocolate chips. These mini cannoli were the perfect cherry on top of a wonderful epicurean and cultural experience.

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Getting to the Good Stuff: Risotto

Once upon a time, a very wise woman posed the question, “Isn’t delayed gratification the definition of maturity?”

Okay, so actually Sarah Jessica Parker’s character Carrie Bradshaw asked that question on the show “Sex and The City.” But all passe pop culture references aside, this question holds some serious weight for anyone with one foot in the “adult world.” As we enter adulthood and discover its ins and outs, we find that many of life’s greatest rewards require a good deal of patience: the perfect apartment you spend months hunting for on Craigslist; a killer promotion that you killed yourself for two years over; that dream job that took you back to school again… There’s a reason why adults are always saying things like “it was worth the wait,” and “patience is a virtue” – after surviving your twenties, my guess is you be able to know this truth deep down in your bones.

Which brings us to Risotto. Risotto is a very grown-up dish. It’s sophisticated, it’s complex, some might even reckon to call it thought-provoking. You’ll find it on the menu of fine restaurants, where it arrives laden with slivers of truffles, and only your very adult salary can afford to order it. Renditions of it are perfumed with fine dry white wine and thyme, two ingredients that don’t enter most home cooks’ refrigerators until their college years are long gone. Risotto is a dish with which you can impress your new boss, new love, new in-laws, or new friends. You know, all of those new “adult-life” who you can no longer count on your flip cup skills to win over.

And, like the experiences of adulthood, risotto will also try your patience.

This is a dish that will make you ask, are we there yet? Okay – so you can’t leave it alone for a moment, or it will burn. But just when you think you’ve got the constant stirring thing down, you discover that over stirring this just a bit will make it too soupy. Eventually you realize that making a good risotto requires striking a balance between attentiveness and relinquishing of control, with a dash of intuition thrown in for good measure. And, like adulthood, you can count on a large glass of wine (or cocktail, let’s be honest) and the company of your friends to get you through the risotto-making process in one piece, and be there to join in celebrating (read: eating) your achievement in the end.

Okay, enough parallels. I promise, this is not as hard as it sounds ;)

When making Mushroom Risotto, the first thing you want to do is mis en place, or prep your ingredients. While this is always a good idea when preparing a meal, it’s especially important to have everything sliced and diced in advance when making risotto, since it does require so much attention. So, gather the good stuff and set it all out on your counter. You’ll need some low-sodium chicken broth, olive oil, unsalted butter, shallots and garlic, some arborio rice (i.e. “risotto rice”), dry white wine, sea salt and fresh cracked pepper, and parsley. Oh, and because too much healthiness will kill a person, some heavy cream and parmesan cheese (full ingredient list with measurements at end of post).

Did I say mushrooms? Right. This is a mushroom risotto, so you’ll need some mushrooms. Actually, a lot of mushrooms – the more mushrooms, the better. We mixed chanterelles and baby portobellos for our rendition, and this was an outrageously good combination. I highly recommend staying away from white button mushrooms if you favor a more complex and flavorful risotto. Springing for the good stuff will be a few extra dollars well spent.

Once you’ve chopped your shallots, minced your thyme, and measured everything out, you should be ready to get going. Start by setting up a medium saucepan, and bringing the chicken stock to a simmer over medium heat. Reduce the heat to very low – this will keep the stock hot, which it needs to be for this to work properly.

At the same time, in a large heavy saucepan, heat the oil and melt the butter over medium-high heat. Add the shallots and garlic, and cook, stirring until fragrant and soft, about 3 minutes.

Then, add the mushrooms and cook, stirring, until wilted and their liquid is evaporated, 4 to 5 minutes.

Once the mushrooms have softened nicely, add the rice and cook, stirring constantly, until the grains are opaque. This should take about 1 minute, but keep an eye on the heat to ensure the grains get moistened, but don’t burn.

Next add the thyme, salt, pepper, and white wine (and pour yourself a glass if you haven’t already), and cook, stirring, until nearly all the wine has evaporated.

Mmmm. Who doesn’t love thyme? It’s like cooking with teeny little Christmas trees. Wonderful.

Anyway…..

Now, it’s time to grow. Give your arms a good stretch and prepare yourself, because this is a marathon, not a sprint. Little by little, start to add the stock to the rice (about half- to three-quarters of a cup at a time) and cook, stirring constantly, until the stock is nearly all evaporated. Continue adding more stock a half a cup at a time as the previous addition is nearly absorbed, until the rice is tender and the risotto is creamy.

The whole process will probably take about a half hour, and once you’re nearing the end of your stock supply, taste the risotto – it should be cooked through (not aldente at all – this isn’t pasta), creamy, and fluffy. At ICE, we learned the trick of dragging your spoon through the risotto against the bottom of the pan to create a “path,” and if the path “stays put” – that is to say, the rice doesn’t immediately rush back in to fill the cleared space – then the risotto is done.

Once you’ve reached this point, stir in the heavy cream, 1/4 cup of the cheese, and the parsley and mix well. Remove the pot from the heat, give the risotto a final taste test, and adjust the seasonings as needed. If you’re feeling fancy, stir in some truffle oil or even some panchetta. But regardless, you must serve this immediately and top each portion with a sprinkling of the remaining cheese.

Now, sit back, relax, and enjoy the fruits of your labor. You might even be an adult now, but if you are, it was certainly worth the wait.

Full List of Ingredients With Quantities (Serves 4)

2.5 to 3 cups chicken stock, or canned low-sodium chicken broth

1/2 tablespoon olive oil

1 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/4 cup finely chopped shallots

1/2 teaspoon minced garlic

12 ounces assorted mushrooms, wiped clean and thinly sliced, stems removed and reserved for making stock, if desired

1 cups arborio rice

1/2 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme

1/2 cup dry white wine

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/4 cup heavy cream

1/2 cup finely grated Parmesan

1 teaspoons chopped fresh parsley leaves

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